Saturday, December 02, 2006

My Last Korean Hike

So after 2 years in Korea last weekend I went on my last hike. On Saturday, November 25th I headed into Cheongju (a medium sized city in the Middle of South Korea) with Becky and Sam. We spent the day in the city, checking out the Baekje Museum and their mountain fortress.

The museum was cool. The Beakje period was in the first half of the the 1st millennium, so it was really amazing to see some of the pottery recovered from the graves. The fact that it had survived so long, and that it was so well made was just incredible. Some of the rims on the bowls and cups were amazingly thin.
It was a great day, and a good way to work into the hike we would be doing the next day. The fortress wall was about 4km long, but it was entertaining, because unlike most walls in Korea the inside of the wall was about at ground level, so any defenders would be visible on the top of the wall -- very odd. The weather was beautiful, there were still a few trees that were colourful, overall a great day. At the end of the day we took a bus to Songnisan town, right beside Songnisan National park, where we would hike the next day.
On the way to the bus we met an English teacher who lived in a town close to the park, and she seemed to think that we would not get all the way to the park town that night -- not that any of us really cared -- which seemed to surprise her. But we did get all the way there -- so that was good. When our bus arrived there was a guy at the bus station who was trying to get people to go to his motel -- perfect -- it was after dark -- we didn't need to wander looking for a place to stay. The town (below) was really cute.
We got up pretty early, 'cause we wanted to get an early start on the hike. At the bottom of the mountain is Beopjusa a very nice temple. So we spent about an hour there. The main hall was unreal. It is too bad the photos are not allowed in that building, because the painting on the roof and all around in that hall was unreal. Also that temple complex is known for its Buddha statue. It is a very large, gold-plated, standing Buddha, and it is featured on the cover of my Lonely Planet. A very impressive statue. The sign said that it is a replica of one originally made in about 776. The other impressive part of this temple complex is the 5 story wooden pagoda. There are few wooded pagodas in Korea, so this was very cool to see. Of course there were also some great temple guards standing on demons, beautiful painting on all the buildings and rock wishes just outside the gate. All in all it was a very impressive temple complex, and a good way to begin the hike.
From there the first 45 minutes or so of the hike was easy. Then it got harder (as was to be expected. It was a good hike, as all are in Korea, and we definitely chose the best possible path. For most of the day we were on the trail alone -- that is almost unheard of here! Also the way we went up was difficult in parts, but most of the way down was not bad at all -- yea us great choice! There was a very cool rock about 3/4 of the way up the mountain. It was pretty cool to see. And at the top there was a rock cliff where the marker that is at the top of every Korean mountain is found. Below is the sign pointing us to the top of the mountain -- I loved the picture telling us there would be a rock at the top :) At the top we were in the clouds, it was misty, and very cold. I think it was the first time Becky and Sam had see the large number of people who can group together at the top of a mountain. Since there was a shelter about 150 meters from the very top of the mountain, there were tons of people there eating their lunches. Even though I have seen it many times, it still seems nuts to me, to hang out and eat at the top of the mountain in the cold wind and rain, when if you descend for only 30 minutes or so it is dry! Eating at the top of the mountain is a great idea in nice weather, the view is excellent, but if not -- what's the point? At the bottom of the mountain we came across these drying persimmons.
Our decent of the mountain went very nicely, we found a great rock to sit on for lunch, and made it down by 2 pm. Then we caught the bus to a little tiny town. From there we caught another bus to Daejeon. It is one of the few big cities I had never been too. There is a great hot spring there, so we went and had a great soak. That is by far the best way to end a hike. It leaves you feeling much better the next day. An excellent end to a wonderful weekend.

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